Last August Sarah and I decided to go camping in Maine at Acacia National Park. While we were there we had so much fun that we vowed to return the following year and bring Buster our Jack Russel Terrier the next time. With the the August heat cooking the south east it was time to pack up and head north again.

Preparation for the cycling part of our trip to Acadia was a hurried affair. After logging some serious overtime at the shop to prepare the staff for my 9 day sabbatical I made some time to prep Sarah’s Redline Conquest Classic and my Civia Bryant for some gravel road riding. Off came the fenders, racks, and panniers. Same for the trusty Continental Gatorskin tires. Acadia has lots of gravel carriage roads to ride and I was going to be pulling a trailer with Buster and some extra gear so cyclocross tires and a stripped down machine were going to be the way to go. Kenda had just released a new cross tire called the Happy Medium that looked to be perfect for the job. Last year I used a similar tire from Michelin which felt good most of the time. However the prospect of pulling a little dog in a trailer down some steep gravel descents insprited me to go with a tire with a bit more tread on the edges for a wee bit more stability in the turns.

With the exception of two trusty VO front racks and Bailey Works bags our machines were looking sleek and ready to roll. We loaded up the van and started the long drive north.

Late afternoon the next day we arrived in the park.  We checked in and set to work getting our camp set up.  The weather in Acadia can be unpredictable and a beautiful sunny day can quickly change to mist or rain.  Getting the tent and cooking area covered was job number one.   I had only taken Buster camping once before and that was a three day trip up in late fall of last year.  The camp sites I stayed at were pretty empty and there was not much down time for him to get bored during.  We were both a little worried that he was going to be a pest the whole trip but were willing to take the chance.  We tethered him to the campsite so he could not wander off and he set to work patrolling the perimeter of our spot and sniffing around.

 

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After getting situated we took a short drive around the park and made a quick trip down the road to pick up some hamburger to cook.  Dinner was cooked over Coleman camp stove and open flame.  Sweet potatoes and beef.  Good fuel for Monday’s early start.

The weather was overcast Monday with a threat of rain so we decided to make our first full day in the park one for hiking rather than biking.  After consulting a park map we decided to head over to the less used west side of the island to check out trails there.  Last year we only hiked on the more frequently used eastern half and wanted to try something new.  We drove around Some’s Sound and picked up a fire road in the park.  The fire road took us about 2 miles into the park and far away from any crowds.  We picked up the Bernard Mountain trail after parking and started the ascent up the mountain.

Bernard mountain has some of the the richest old growth forest on the island and as we worked our way up into the thickest part of the trees it was simply beautiful.  Dense groves of cedar and spruce had deposited countless needles on the forest floor giving parts of the trail springy, mattress like feel as we walked across them.  Somewhere off to the right we heard a male deer bellowing.  Along the two and a half mile trail we encountered less than 10 other hikers.

 

After reaching the summit of Bernard Mountain we turned down the Sluiceway Trail.  Along the way Buster made a point to poke his head into every hollow stump and crevice he could find and lap up water from small springs that would often cross our path.  We stopped on the way down to share lunch of home made beef jerky and trail mix with our fearless little dog.  At the bottom we drove back out the way we came and were lucky enough to be surprised by a huge Barred Owl flying across our path then alighting in a tree along the fire road.

As the weather turned cooler we drove down to Seawall and looked out south into the Atlantic while Buster sniffed at tied pools.  Dinner was found in Bar Harbor followed by delicious home made ice cream at one of the local spots.  That night the rain came in and lasted much off the next day.  We spent time on short hikes, reading, and driving around some of the scenic routes in the park.  That evening the rain finally blew back off the island leaving a cool damp air.  Certainly not ideal but a good bit more bearable than the oppressive humidity that often follows summer rain in Virginia.  We slept well and crossed our fingers hoping for good weather on Wednesday.

 

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We awoke to the sun shining through the trees covering our campsite as it slowly warmed the air.  Finally it was time to ride!  We packed up lunch, rain jackets, and Buster and rolled out from our campground heading down route 3 for a brief moment before hopping down an embankment to the roads of the park.  After about 2 miles of pavement we rode up the park loop road to Jordan Pond where many of the gravel carriage roads of the park intersect.

We headed north along the Around the Mountain route for a time then turned east to make a loop around Eagle Lake then through more forest, meadow, and marsh.  Up north some more passing beaver dams and cat tails, stopping along Witch Hole Pond to take in the view and watch a heron hunt fish.  

As we rode further north along the carriage roads away from the parking areas near Eagle Lake we came across fewer and fewer other park users which made for some very quite and relaxing riding.  The carriage roads themselves are mostly hard packed dirt and gravel.  The wide cyclocross tires on our bikes floated over the surface making for an amazingly smooth ride.

Leaving road racing bikes and the like behind in Richmond we enjoyed a much more relaxed approach to riding.  There was no race to run, no worry about being back at a certain time.  Just the lovely warm air and the sound of gravel crunching under our tires.  I find it so important to always take steps to keep riding fun.  Spending time racing and training is fun in it’s own way as I work towards the seasons goals but it is very refreshing to slow down and allow the path itself to become the goal.  No finish lines or times just riding for the simple pleasure that comes with it.

I made a point to leave all my road riding gear at home opting for semi-casual riding clothes and lace up cycling shoes I could easily stop and walk around in.  Two hours into a ride I was no less comfortable in a loose fitting technical t-shirt and baggy shorts than I would have been in lycra.


After about 17 miles of leisurely meandering around undulating carriage roads we hopped back onto the pavement to make a quick 2 mile trip into Bar Harbor for some lunch.  After a nice unhurried break we mounted back up and pedaled out of town back towards the park loop road.  We took it’s winding, rolling path around Kebo mountain past Sieur de Monts and out towards the coast.  Along the southeast part of the island the park loop road clings to the steep rocky coast line and it winds south around cliffs and coves.  At Thunder Hole we stopped for a break and came upon two other riders that were also up from Virginia.  Hailing from Blacksburg they had encountered some problems with a flat tire and a defective pump.  I took out my Topeak frame pump and helped get them rolling again.  The day was growing long and 17 miles of gravel plus another 20 or so of pavement towing dog and trailer over hill and dale was starting to wear me down.  We made it back to camp and hit the showers.

After dinner and some hard earned ice cream we sat around the camp fire for a time before bedding down for some much needed rest.  Six hours of riding, walking around, pulling the dog, and lunching takes it out of you in a way that no training ride does.

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The next day’s plan included the steep and challenging hike over Dorr Mountain followed by the rocky ascent of Cadillac Mountain.  We did this same route last year at it was extremely fun.  We parked at the Sieur de Monts, harnessed Buster and started the hike up.

The hike starts with Emery Path.  This portion of the hike is literally a 1/2 mile long stone stair case that takes you half way up the first summit.  The stairs are all made from rough cut granite pull directly from the area immediately surrounding the trail.  It makes for a tedious but beautiful start to the hike.  After a time we cut over Schiff path for a mile along the side of the mountain then up to the summit.  Near the top painted trail markers are replaced with stone cairns that make the correct route across open rock.

 

Along the way up I spotted this guy hopping along the path and stopped to snap a picture before heading further up.

 

At the summit we took a break for lunch before heading down a gorge and up to Cadillac.

Climbing down from Dorr to the Gorge Path that runs between the two mountains is a steep rock scramble that takes you down almost 600 feet from Door’s 1270 foot summit in about 2/10 of a mile.  At the bottom the trail kicks back up another steep rock scramble at once this time taking you back up about 1000 feet in about 4/10 of a mile.  At many times you are literally crawling up boulders to stay on route.  Buster seemed utterly unaffected by the challenging terrain and merrily hopped from rock to rock down and back up.

At the summit we stopped again to relax a bit and Buster was treated to a strawberry popsicle which seemed to blow his mind.  Between eating out, camp food, and snacks along the way he seemed to be getting treated to more people food than dog food.

After a short time wandering the the summit dodging all of the folk to elected to drive their cars, suvs, or motorhomes it was time to go.  Retracing our steps we scrambled down to the gorge, back up to Dorr, then ultimately to the stone stairs.

Somehow the going down is actually harder than going up it seemed.

 

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After a much needed shower it was dinner time.  The outdoor seating at the Jordan Pond house was just what we needed.  Buster and I feasted on phyllo encrusted brie, popovers, and boiled lobster while Sarah had the quiche.  I was reminded how unimpressed I have always been with lobster but Buster seemed to think that the gross stuff deep inside the creature’s shell was fantastic.

On the way back to the campsite Buster passed out at once, the 4.5 mile hike over two mountains clearly taking the fight out of him.  Back at camp another calm evening of poking the fire and reading was just what we needed.

 

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Friday morning we got up early to pack in as much hiking and riding as possible into our last day on the island.  First up was a walk at low tide from Bar Harbor out to Bar Island.  For about 3 hours twice a day this rocky path is exposed allowing you to cross the harbor by foot.  The rest of the day it is covered by close to 10 feet of water.

Once across there is a short hike up to the top of Bar Island with a nice view back across the harbor to the town.

The hike is only about 2 miles out and back but with the short window of time to cross the harbor you actually have to watch the time or you face a VERY long wait on the island for the afternoon low tide.

Along the way back Buster cooled his feet and sniffed at snails.

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After the hike was over we quickly went back to camp to prepare for the days bike ride.  This time around we hit the gravel carriage roads going a different direction.  We started near Bubble Pond and headed north along the eastern shore of Eagle Lake.  Around the lake we picked up the Aunt Betty Pond road that traces the outer perimeter of the park area that is criss crossed by the carriage roads.  Looping all the way around several mountains and along the southern border of the park this route took us up and down climbs and over stone bridges overlooking beautiful vistas.  

 

Twenty miles later we were back at Bubble Pond where we started.  The weeks activities were starting to wear the three of us down so we happily packed the bikes back onto the van and made one last scenic drive around the island with a few stops to breathe in the cool late afternoon air.

As we began to run out of daylight we made out way past the coast line and back to camp.  We broke down all but our tent and began to wind down before hitting the hay.  We had a long drive back ahead of us starting Saturday at 6am and wanted to be as rested as possible.

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For anyone looking for a late summer break form Richmond’s heat I can’t recommend Acadia enough.  The long drive is worth it.  Whether you have a dog like us, kids, or even a solo trip to reflect you cant beat it up there.  Beautiful rides and more hikes than you could hope to complete in a month of constant use.  One of the best parts is that there are people riding bikes EVERYWHERE.  From the town of Bar Harbor to the surrounding park and back roads the island is a cycling utopia that can rival any other in the U.S.  It was refreshing to see riders of all ages and types aboard all manner of bikes.  From the solitary roadie climbing up steep hills to whole families out enjoying the leisurely cruise around the flat paths that surround Eagle Lake.

All of this on a island sculpted out of pink granite and schist, carved by glaciers, and filled with crystal clear lakes and quite pine forest.  I’ll be going back again next year for sure.  Maybe I’ll run into you up there.